Model Engine Works: trains

Showing posts with label trains. Show all posts

Tuesday, 13 September 2022

009 Coaches Using Moulded Sides

A set of coaches to complement a 009 Beyer Peacock with G.W.R. theme livery.

I decided to replicate a previous coach build using the same Ratio coach sides. My plan was to cut and reform these into sides for a small bogie first coach with three compartments, using a set of Ratio 612/123 GWR Composite coach sides. Also a small six-wheeler three compartments third coach, and a brake/mail coach also a six-wheeler, using Ratio 613/123 GWR Brake 3rd coach sides.

The wheel sets for these would be a Peco GR-106 bogie set for the bogie first coach and three Peco 10ft wooden wagon chassis to form the six wheelers.

The plan with Peco 10ft wooden wagon chassis was to cut the first one in half and use the brake details, then cut a second to fit equally between the first removing the brake details just leaving the axle boxes of the central one. All of the moulded buffers were removed leaving clean square ends to butt together and glue with liquid polystyrene cement. This was done, top down on a flat non plastic surface. This created the chassis frame for the brake/mail coach which was going to be visible.

For the second chassis, I did the same thing cutting a chassis in half, but this time removed all the brake gear and with the remaining axal box from the first conversion I positioned this between the two halves, then with some Plasticard packers added between to create a longer version to suit the compartment, third coach. This coach frame was to have running boards fitted at the height of the axle boxes so details like the baking gear would not be seen.

The central wheels are flangeless, a simple solution and while fiddly to create is an idea that has been used for a long time by manufacturers. These N gauge wheels are so small it is very hard to see if they have flanges or not. I did the removal with a sharp scalpel, carefully scoring around the wheel rim several times until the flange ring popped off. When on the track it looks as any six-wheeler would but has the simple ability to negotiate tight radius curves like any four wheel chassis.

The core of the coach body is formed in 3mm balsa wood, this includes the base and compartment divisions. These are cut and shaped to a template, so they are all the same section. They are then glued to the base at 90º to line up with the coach sides window frames. On the compartment, third coach the thickness at the edges was reduced on both sides to allow for the thinner window frame sections. The coach ends are cut and shaped from 1mm Plasticard again using a template to get them all the same. The plank effect is scribed (not cut) into the surface with a sharp pointed Vee, using the back of a knife blade, then clean off with wet and dry paper to get rid of the burs.

To form the roofs, I have used a cold moulding method with brown gum paper tape, not the reinforced type but the artist's type which comes on a very long roll and is 50mm wide. The former for the roofs is the spray primer can which I later used to prime the model, so nothing special. It is just the right length and curve for the job. The first of 5 layers are stuck in place on the can with masking tape at each end gum side up, lining this up carefully is important to make sure the roof is not twisted. The next layers are all added to this gum side down, dipping in a shallow tray of water to activate the gum. These are cut smaller than the first layer, so they do not cover the masking tape and make it easier to remove when dry. The roof should be left to dry fully usually overnight will be fine. They can now be cut to size to suit the coach body they are to be used on.

The roof is located with some small strips of balsa wood at each corner, the rain gutters are made from strips of Plasticard bent and fixed with contact adhesive, and the roof vents are a set from Dundas Models. Once all was put together and dry, I sprayed it with a grey primer. It was then cleaned off any blemishes. I used a combination of grey and white primers to give different shades of grey on each of the coach's roofs.

The coach bodies and chassis were then assembled onto the balsa wood cores using contact adhesive, and the ends and sides were glued with liquid polystyrene cement. After this a set of running boards were added, one on the bogie first coach, two high on the compartment third coach, and steps only at the doors on the brake/mail coach. This gives a good idea of what the various styles look like. To strengthen the lower boards on the compartment third coach, I used some small wire brackets bent at 90º and fitted into holes drilled in the bottom of the upper running boards when fixed to the coach. The lower boards were glued to these and the axle boxes, which has been a good stable platform.

Next, I added Peco NEM coupling pockets to the coaches, these can sit directly in front of the N gauge coupling mouldings, you will need to open the mouldings out to allow the new pockets to be fitted in the correct positions on the chassis, also a small amount of the pocket mould will need to be trimmed back. The good thing with these is that they sit at more or less the right level to work with other 009 couplings.

Painting, I used a grey primer as the base coat, I then masked off the bottom and interior of the windows to spray the upper sides in white primer. The upper coach sides were finished in a matt mid-cream mix and the bottom and ends of the two passenger coaches were finished in a Humbrol M160 brown. The brake coach was finished in a red/maroon mix giving a deep red shade, the ends of this one and all of the coach chassis and running boards were finished in Revell M9 Anthracite. Handles were picked out in Humbrol brass metallic, and the window frames were lined in the respective coach bottom colours as a contrast to the cream upper sides.

The lettering was added using some Old Time Works gold First and Third signs on the centre door mid panel of the passenger coaches. The brake coach received Guard and luggage on each door and black 2mm MAIL on each side upper panels between the doors. A black lining added a definition between the upper cream and the lower colour, this was done with a Staedtler permanent Lumocolour fine pen and a ruler. All of this was then sealed with an overall coat of satin varnish to all areas of the coaches.

I then added some sheet lead weight to each of the coaches and clear glazing as a finishing touch. The results are good vernation on the wood grain coach I did using this method previously. They look well with the Beyer Peacock. Also, I have a nice simple method of making 009 six wheelers now, I will have to try it on some wagon next.

Sunday, 3 April 2022

Castlederg and Victoria Bridge Tramway Beyer Peacock 2-4-0T

The creation of this model started as a challenge to me to create a 3D printed chassis as well as an engine body. I picked the Beyer Peacock 2-4-0T as it worked well with the motor, gears, and wheels I had selected for the job. Over time and several versions of the model it evolved and I got one to work with a Halling motor bogie as a temporary chassis. This was taken to a meeting at the Oldham 009 group in November 2021 where it ran on Paul Titmuss’ 00n3 layout Wood Brook.

It was suggested that it would be a good idea to work up a copy of the Castlederg and Victoria Bridge Tramway Beyer Peacock 2-4-0T but with motion covers and frames on both sides to allow the use of the Halling chassis. With a lot of help from Paul and the 00n3 group, a 3D model was drafted based on the original and confirmed as looking correct. The idea behind this model is to offer to modellers a tempting introduction to the 00n3 gauge.

This also turned into a challenge for a friend who runs a small 3D printing business Thingymaker to see if he could produce a print to compete with Shapeways. This is a challenge that has for several years eluded him. I had a pair of prints produced by Thingymaker and Shapeways. These were both in acrylic resin but using two different processes, so they are not exactly alike, but the level of detail is good and sharp on both prints. Both do take a bit of preparation to make ready for finishing in different ways.

The Shapeways print in Fine Detailed Plastic, as usual, needs the wax support residue removed and a fair bit of surface residue removed from some of the print faces before priming and adding details. But this is as we expect form this material. The Thingymaker print is supported on sprues and they are tightly packed inside the print, so a bit of careful removing is needed to avoid breaking anything off the model. There is also some work to do on the internal surfaces of the print to remove some areas where the resin domes as it finishes printing, a bit like surface tension on a liquid surface. This is a little bit fiddly on some of the smaller parts but not insurmountable

I have developed the model to print in several parts, a bit like an “Airfix” kit, we have the main body, the upper cab and the front bogie are the main pieces. Details parts such as the sandboxes, smoke-box door, funnel, bell dome, and safety valves, Westinghouse pump, toolbox, water tank filler caps, air cylinder, and boiler fittings are separate for ease of finishing and adding more details.

There are also several other small parts that I have added. Cab handrails formed in 0.45mm brass wire, pilot holes are formed in the bodywork for these, a brass whistle by Markits, brass grab rails on the boiler using short handrail knobs, and wire again by Markits. Pipework from the boiler fittings to the cab in soft 1mm steel armature wire. I also used this to make the coupling hooks mounted on the front bogie and under the rear buffer beam. This was obtained from a jewellery craft supplier on eBay and is soft and pliable.

To create the bogie pivot a 12BA cheese head machine screw was used with a couple of washers, one under and one over the bogie frame. The thread was screwed straight into a tight hole drilled in the bodywork where a pilot whole marks the location to drill. The wheel set on the bogie was from a Tralee and Dingle Railway van by Dundas Models. The axles were slightly shortened with a file, turned down in an electric drill to give a clearance fit in the V pockets of the bogie frame, and retained by some 0.45mm wire slotted in holes under the axle in the frame. A small amount of sheet lead was added to the top of the bogie frame to give it a bit of weight, and help it to run better. Lead sheet was also added to the tank sides above the motion cover frames on each side of the body, which seemed to add enough weight to give the model reasonable traction.

A pair of white metal vacuum hoses were carefully reshaped to work on the front and rear of the model. The front one is flat and sitting on top of the buffer beam, the hose retained to the right side viewed from the front. The rear one sits to the left side of the buffer beam viewed from the rear, with the pipe bent towards the coupling hook then under the beam. These can also be done with armature wire of about 1mm diameter.

When painting the model, I gave it a few coats of grey spray primer. Most of the parts are painted separately and added to the model when dry.

The crimson lake I worked with is a mixed colour using Humbrol gloss 20 maroon and a bright matt red Revel M36, the same one I used for the buffer beams. This is toned down on a second coat with the addition of a Revel red-brown matt 37M to the mix which takes most of the shine away but leaves a matt to a satin finish.

I have then dry brushed on some Revel 9M charcoal black to highlight the rivets and shadows on the model. The 9M charcoal black is also used on the foot pate, motion frames, roof, bogie, and smokebox areas. Some parts are highlighted using a mix of the black and silver (gunmetal). Areas like the bogie axles boxes, cab steps, smokebox door handles and hinges, Westinghouse pump, pipework, and handrails all benefit from this.

The models had their first outing at Narrow Gauge North in March 2022 and were displayed on Paul Titmuss' layout Wood Brook. This is where the pictures show them running.

I would like to thank the 00n3 group of the 009 society for all their help in producing this model.

This is a list of items and supplier used on the model

3D Printed Body

Model Engine Works at Shapeways

00n3 Beyer Peacock (5ADPMUXAS) by tdhurst (shapeways.com)

Also through Thingymaker a UK based printer

https://www.Thingymaker.com

1-Halling Motor Bogie ref Verio 4W Drive H0m Supplers: Halling Modelle

ref Verio 4W Drive H0m

IDANT-VAR-HOM-DG 9mm SD wheels

https://shop.ferro-train.com

2-Bogie wheel set Dundas Models

https://dundasmodels.co.uk

Mosskito 8.0mm metal wheels – solid disc DW86

12mm gauge

Vale of Rheidol Vacuum & Heating Pipes DP03

Short on rear & long on front

3-Small metal parts Wizard Models Limited

RM10: Medium Handrail Knobs (Pack 12)

AG04: Short Handrail Knobs (Pack 25)

ebay suppliers

0.45mm Brass wire (pack off 10 handrail wire)

0.7mm Brass wire (pack off 10 modelling wire)

2010rowantree634

BA Brass Cheesehead Screws, Nuts & Washers(20pk) BA 12 BA

ekpsupplies2009

200 x 30cm x 0.9mm Steel Armature Frame Wire

Galvanised for Jewellery, Modelling

trustleaf

4-Company Crest

The C & V.T. crest was printed on a home inkjet printer

using a Image imported into a word document and sized to suite.

Decals can be supplied by Custom Model Decals

Http://custom-model-decals.com

Monday, 3 January 2022

M.E.W. Island Lighthouse

A lighthouse may seem a relatively easy building to make but to get the cone shape right is deceptively tricky since the proportions of the column have to look correct.
Also, forming a glazed housing for the lamp lens with a suitably shaped roof and balcony around it can be a difficult task to pull together. To this end, I had the idea of fashioning a set of parts that could be used to make many different shapes and sizes of the lighthouse.

For my prototype samples, I made a short cone and medium sized cone-shaped tower with which we all associate a lighthouse. I also did a building-style lighthouse with a cylinder shaped tower structure attached, as a comparison to the others. The main materials used in the construction of these buildings was 2mm, foam board, for the base, straight walls and flat shaped formers where required, thin flexible cardboard for anything that needed to be curved, and 50mm wide brown gum paper tape to reinforce the structure (not the reinforced packing type but the smooth art and framing tape). The glazing was a combination of recycled clear acetate and 30mm diameter clear acrylic tubing. I tried both on the lamp lens housing and found the acrylic tubing the best. Doors and windows I obtained from a set of Wills building accessory parts.

The basic cone shape is easiest to form as a flat shape on paper round a skeleton former. This is then reinforced with further layers of paper or gum paper tape which although relativity thin is very strong, and when slotted into the base and balcony is a very robust structure. I have shown a link to a document describing how I formed the cone shape. These can be made to any height that you may think suitable for your particular model. Of course, you can work with a straight cylinder if you wish although this will not fit into the slot in the base. If so a card ring can be cut and added to the bottom of this to do the same job. This is also the case if you wish to make a building with the light fitted to the roof.

The plinth is a cylinder which I have formed with a round disc made to the inner rim diameter of the printed base. I found that 2 or 3mm foam board was a good material to form this in as it is easy to cut for this disc. Two or three layers should be bonded together create a solid base, then thin card cut into a strip 15 to 25 mm high will form the wall. This should be overlapped three or four times to give strength and thickness. It is then possible to add an inner core of a height suitable to hold the LED just under the lens tube. I have found that this gives the best lighting effect with the lens.

The lens tube is a clear “Bic” pen outer casing that is cut to a length of between 40mm and 60mm. The top 20mm is grooved with a small round file forming between 4 and 6 equal rings in the top 20mm section. I found that turning the tube in a drill chuck made this much easier to do. I have allowed clearance in the balcony floor hole to wrap the middle section of this tube in gum paper tape which allows the forming of a stop at the bottom to position the lens at the correct height.

Forming the Lamp housing is done using a short section of 30mm diameter x 2mm wall clear acrylic tube. The height of this is not fixed and can be to suit your particular model. I would suggest that the lower section is covered in paper gum tape or similar material to stop light bleeding, which also gives a good line to form the windowsill ring around the top of this. This windowsill ring needs to be the same thickness as the proposed vertical glazing bars( I made my version 2mm height x 1mm deep).
The glazing bars can be made in many different ways. For my prototype models, I used 8 vertical bars 1mm x 1mm white plasticard bonded with super glue. It just needs an overlay fitting to the upper part of the outer clear acrylic cylinder which will give the impression of glazing bars. This could be as I have done vertical glazing bars or diamond pattern bars, offset glazing bars were also used in some lighthouses to allow for flat glazing panels.
To guide the installation of these glazing bars, I made a small cylinder of paper to fit inside the acrylic tube and marked the 8 vertical lines equally spaced on this.
I also used a paper ring to form the inner finish of the lower lens housing which is much easier than painting the inside of the tube and gives a nice crisp line at the top.

Doors and windows
I used doors from a Wills set of parts, and also windows and outer frames on the lighthouse building prototype. The openings in towers are formed with just a cutout and some acetate sheet bonded straight to the inner wall surface. The cutouts in the paper for both doors and windows have the edges sealed with PVA before painting.

The printed parts are a roof, balcony, and base ring.

The roof is an eight segment metal clad dome with a ball finial cap. The cap itself has a pilot hole for the addition of a weather vane or lighting conductor to be added. Under the roof, a rim is formed to accept a 30mm diameter clear acrylic tube which forms the lamp housing.
A balcony with railings around the outer edge has a trough formed in the top surface to take the bottom of the 30mm diameter clear acrylic tube. It also has a slot to take the cone formed at the base, with corbels on the outside of the cone for supports to the balcony.
The base ring is designed to allow the cone to sit within a rim in the top surface, and the bottom has a rebate around the outer edge to locate it onto the separate plinth. This plinth is useful to allow the removal of the structure when in place on a layout or diorama making it easier for the permanent fitting of an LED lighthouse lamp fitting.

Painting and finishing sprayed the printed parts and paper parts with a grey primer and then applied the render or paint finishes.
To achieve a render finish on the main tower I have come up with a mix of one part acrylic white paint, one part white powder filler and one part PVA glue, with a spot of washing up liquid to break the surface tension of the PVA. When mixed together a small amount of water is needed to create a smooth paste like texture, this is then stippled in place with a stiff brush. Once dry it can be over-coated with acrylic paints and then weathered.
Weathering was achieved with a mix of acrylic colours yellow ocher, sap green, Payne’s grey, and white. These were applied in thin washes and by dry brushing There is also a rust wash and staining in areas around the railings and balcony, which was done with enamels thinned and dry-brushed.

Lighting unit
The lighthouse simulated rotating lamp effect unit by Mini Lights can be purchased in several different versions and they give a very realistic flash to a static light source. My first sample unit was mounted on a plinth that raised it up into the core of the cone to just under the lens tube. I found it focused the light better by adding a small upstand around the lamp. It is much easier to have the base for the lighthouse separate, so this can be added to the landscape and wired in without risking damage to the lighthouse model itself.

The power for my unit was from a 9V battery. I mounted this in a switched battery box, these are quite freely available on the internet. The units are rated to run on a 7- 13 volts regulated DC power supply or 9 volts battery. To further aid the changing of the battery I added a pair of low voltage plug connectors between the light unit and the battery box.

List of suppliers:

Mini Lights Lighthouse simulated rotating lamp effect unit by
https://www.mini-lights.co.uk/mlshop/lighthouse-lighting-effect-unit.html

4D Model shop London 30 mm dia Clear acrylic round tube 330mm
https://modelshop.co.uk/Shop/Item/Clear-acrylic-round-tube-330mm/ITM2040

Any good art shop supplier.
Gummed Paper Brown Paper Tape Picture Framing Canvas / Gum Wet 200m x 50mm roll
(note not the reinforced packing tape).

3D Printed Parts
Model Engine Works on Shapeways
https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model-engine-works

Cone pattern development document.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/155N8zx6Zl3zm1o4C4EalgVkWx7qNqEor/view?usp=sharing

Sunday, 7 February 2021

0-16.5 Engines

Updated 2022

It was at the Halifax 2019 model railway show that I was tempted by an old Hornby “Smoky Joe” style 0-4-0 engine sitting in one of the second-hand boxes. I had seen some ideas on YouTube about add simple cylinders and coupling rods to these which looked convincing when completed. Little did I think it would lead me into an interest in a new scale of 7mm.

It was some weeks later when I came round to see what I could do with the old Hornby chassis, my first thoughts were the type of engine I could build from the existing bodywork. I found a very good source of inspiration at the Smallbrook Studios web site. They do resin body conversions for the 00 chassis in a 7mm scale, there is also a good catalog of rolling stock and detailed parts.

I found one saddle tank conversion from a Hornby “Thomas The Tank Engine” Bill Loco just what I liked. I look on eBay and was lucky enough to find a body for the Bachmman version of the Bill engine. My plan was to scratch build a new cab and smokebox door, then buy a cast resin dome and water tank lid. Other details I could get from various other sources.

My next thoughts were on the cylinder conversion, I looked up the You Tube video I had seen previously. The parts used on that were spares form a Hornby Class 28XX 2-8-0 Loco Valve gear, I got a set of these from Peters Spares. Only the crossheads and slide bars would be needed for this job so the other bits would be saved for something in the future. To attach the crossheads and the coupling rods I required some very small 14BA machine screws nuts and washers, and eBay came up with a suitable supplier of these.

I would need to build some simple cylinders to fit onto the existing chassis, and remove the existing moulded ones. To do this I laminated together a couple of Placticard blocks and a bridge between them to form a cylinder arrangement. Holes were drilled to give a clearance fit to the crossheads and a tight fit for the slid bars. The chassis was cut to allow the cylinders to sit in the correct place.

The next job was to alter the coupling rods, these needed to be cut in front of the dummy cross heads, and a clearance hole made in the centre of the rod for the 14BA screws. Once done the screws can be passed through from the back of the coupling rods, a washer placed between them and the crosshead, then a couple of nuts used on the outside of the crossheads will lock them in place. It all needs to be a loose fit to work. Once all is fitted together a quick test run will let you know if any adjustments are required for smooth running.

Once the chassis was running, I started thinking, could I 3D print a version of the cylinders and crossheads. So off I went to the computer and came up with a version that used 0.7mm brass wire for the slide rods and cylinder rod. I used White Versatile Plastic to create the prototype print and after a couple of attempts, I got them working. So I added these to the loco I was building.

There came a point when I had to add the Bachmman body to the Hornby chassis, This was not a straight forward fit, but with a little cutting and a bit of Milliput Putty, it went together. By removing some plastic from the bottom of the footplate around the front and rear couplings and infilling a small section to the front of the footplate, where an 8 BA nut could be bonded to the underside. The chassis in turn needed a slot cutting at the back to allow it to fit the rear bodywork. A hole was drilled through the front of the chassis in the centre of the cylinder bridge to allow an 8 BA screw to pass through, this is to hold the chassis and body together. NEM Coupling pockets were fitted in place encased in Milliput putty at both ends of the chassis,

Once I had completed the scratch-built body the natural progression was to see if I could produce a 3D printed version of a body. The only thing to decide what engine to have a go with. In the end, I worked on two types the Skylark style and Peckett style engines which I had already done in 009. These were scaled up and reworked around the new chassis. The idea being, to create a body shell with the cylinders already attached. These could be used as simple conversion to the Hornby chassis by removing the cylinders and couplings from the Hornby chassis, then the chassis would simply push into place under the new body.

If you wanted to go further you removed the cylinders from the printed body also and add the additional printed cylinder block and crossheads to the chassis to create a more detailed version of the engine. They would also have pockets in the buffer beams to accommodate NEM coupling pockets at the correct height. Well, it all seemed like a good idea.

I had two prototype prints done in White Versatile Plastic to try these out, they both fitted the chassis as expected and work well as simple conversions.

I have also done a third body now, this one is a quarry Hunslet style with a cap that can be built in three versions, one open, one with no back, and a fully enclosed version. I just could not make my mind up which I liked best.

I Have now added a Sharp Stewart Tattoo Saddel tank to the ranks of the 0 gauge fleet of small engines. It is printed with some alternative parts such as funnels. This one is designed to run on the 0-6-0 Electrotren chassis with the rear wheels swaped for a 10mm solid disk type to form a pony wheel.

I have added a list of additional fitting that I used and the supplier below. The three printed bodies and cylinders conversion are available on Shapeways at:

https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model-engine-works?section=0-

16.5+Engines&s=0

List of Parts:

Hornby 0-4-0 Chassis or Electrotren 0-6-0 Chassis

Printed or scratch-built chassis blocks

Brass 0.7mm brass wires

Parts from Peters Spares

Hornby X8834W Class 28XX 2-8-0 Loco Valve Gear Set Weathered.

Couplings and NEM pockets

sales@petersspares.com

8BA Screws nuts and washers

14 BA screws nuts and washers

Sunday, 24 January 2021

009 Atlas Tram and Coach Conversion

There is a really nicely modelled Atlas Editions Bern steam tram and coach out on sale at the minute, which with a little careful conversion makes a very detailed steam tram engine and coach set for 009 modellers. The main additions are a Kato 11-110 chassis to motorise the steam tram engine and a set of Peco G-106 bogies. There are also a set of Peco GR-103 NEM pockets and some 1mm Plasticard to form some new interface parts to put it all together. The good thing about this is, if done carefully no intricate painting would be needed to get a really detailed pair of models.

The main difficulty with this conversion is the dismantling of the two models. I found that some parts were glued together more affectivity than others. This can cause some breakages as the plastic used is quite delicate. I found that the worst areas were the railings on both the tram and coach, which broke in several places.

I will start with the coach as that is the simplest and a good starting point to get a feel of the conversion. I removed the wheels, dummy bogies and couplings. The metal used to form the floor of the coach is quite soft and can be cut with a razor saw. The couplings are held on two small metal tabs under the end beams. These need to be cut off in line with the underside of the floor.

The steps are formed in quite thick plastic and to allow enough swing on the couplings it is a good idea to reduce these on the backside, and soften the inner edges. I ended up having to re-fix one of these as it was not glued on well.

To fit the bogies, I created a new subfloor in 1mm plasticard which fitted between the steps and the break gear in the centre of the coach. I left the original threaded lugs used to fix the coach to the display base in place and drilled two holes in the new base to allow for these. The other two lugs to fix the dummy bogies in place I had to remove. This was done by drilling, using progressively larger drills. Once at the bottom face of the floor I formed a countersink to allow clearance for the free moment of the new bogies.

To mount the Peco G-106 bogies all that is needed is a hole of the correct size, and they will just clip in place. These were formed by drilling a clearance hole larger than the bogies require in the subfloor. A packer is then made to sit below this which has a smaller hole suited to the bogie's clips. This needs to be fairly small and inbound of the wheels which need to swing freely. I glued this in place under the hole in the subfloor, lining it up the two holes, which formed a small rebate above the hole in the packer.

The bogies were adapted to suit the steps, by using a set of the Peco GR-103 NEM coupling pockets and cutting these and refitting them to form a long bar type mount instead of the moulded L shaped arrangement. I then glued this to the opposite end of the bogie to the existing NEM pocket. By doing this it had a long enough reach to work with the steps. It was then just a case of fitting my preferred coupling in place.

With this arrangement the coach should be able to negotiate track curves around 200 to 230mm (8 to 9”) and it is a really nicely detailed coach.

The steam tram takes a little more work to dismantle it. The boiler, funnel and pipework are all glued in place then fitted to the base which has to be removed at the bottom, and the side railings are very awkward to get off without breakage. In the end, I removed the roof and windows above the waistline. This allowed me much better access to the bits, but I still had to carefully break the funnel off the boiler. I carefully saved all the bits for re-assembly later, then using the existing base as a template I marked a piece of 1mm plasticard with its shape. I then marked some centre lines on the new base and added a template of the Kato 11-110 cut out.

Once this is cut out and fits in place OK, some stops to position it is needed on the front and back of the cab. It sits 1mm below the original base and there are a couple of ridges on the ends of the bodywork which gives you a good guide to position the stops. A new floor needs adding above the chassis to make it easier to fit the boiler and pipework back in place. This needs to be a fraction smaller than the original base and is supported on a couple of strips fitted to each side, which are about 5mm wide so the whole floor will be raised up by 6mm. The boiler will need to be reduced by this 6mm also. This is just about level with the existing body sides so does not look much different from the original arrangement.

The one item I could nor repair was the side railings, they were just too brittle small and fiddly to work with. A new pair of railings were made from brass wire soldered together. To make these easier to assemble I formed notches in the 1.5mm poles to allow the 0.7mm handrails to sit in, which were all held in place by Blue tack on a cutting mat, then soldered in place.

Removing the roof first makes the fitting of the internal pieces much easier. I assembled it dry then painted the floor and fitted everything back in place before putting it in the body. The railings I had reformed in brass wire and painted silver before adding to the body. This meant that there were four poles to locate in the holes on the underside of the roof and the funnel to glue back in place with the cab ends.

The couplings are a bit tricky to fit, I decided to add NEM coupling pockets. These need a hole making in the correct place, so I sat the body on the chassis and lined up the coach bogie with the skirts to mark the hole position, drilled a hole and filed it out to suit. The pockets can then be pushed in from the back and glued in place.

The body is a little lightweight with the original base removed, so a couple of strips of lead were added to the new floor and also a bit in the boiler for good measure, which seemed to make a difference.

It makes a really nicely detailed set, and the steam tram goes well with other bits of rolling stock.