Model Engine Works: 2015

Saturday, 14 November 2015

0 4 4 Blessingbourne

Updated 2018

It was whilst reading through my copy of “The Clougher Valley Railway” by E.M.Patterson that I came across the 0 4 4 engine Blessingbourne. This was the seventh of the Clougher Valley engines to be built, this one by Hudswell Clark in 1910, and according to the account in the book, not the most successful of engines. There were two good photographs in the book, a rear view and a good side view. I liked the semi- plated tram style of the engine and gave some thought as to the type of chassis I could build it on. The side plates hiding the driving wheels and rear wheels exposed, sparked the idea of using one of the Kato 11-105 type chassis.

This would give the right appearance if I could re-proportion the overall size of the bodywork to suit with as little overhang as possible.

After several nights on the computer drawing up sketches and re-jigging the boiler and footplate to suit the chassis, a passable 3D model was achieved. Not an exact copy but recognisable. It was printed in Frosted Ultra-Detail plastic to highlight details such as the cab window bars and the smoke box door handles.

The chassis was intended to fit with minimum modification, the rear base needing a small notch in order to accommodate the Peco NEM coupler pockets if used.

The other additions added to the bodywork were the hand rails: I used Gibson from Mainly Trains http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk which uses 0.45mm brass wire and some really small brass handrail knobs. Seven of the short versions of these were used on this engine – they are fiddly to handle but look very much to scale. These were added to the front of each water tank and round the boiler and smoke box front.

With this chassis being very light and really quite powerful for its size, with small wheels and a low gearing, it has a tendency to slip on track with any gradients. This is much as the original did; it was very unpopular with the crews because of this. To reduce this with the model it is necessary to add a good bit of weight over the driving bogie, and with the size of this body there is plenty of space to do this.

It was suggested that there is alternative chassis, the Bandai B-Train Shorty Chassis 3. This has different wheel centres, so the rear bogie looks a bit long but the benefit of all the wheels being driven are worth living with. It has much better traction and fits within the same aperture on the model. The only addition being a small piece of Blu Tack being used at the rear end to pack the chassis level.

Like all Shapeways F.U.D., it is important to remove the wax residue from the surface before painting. I soak the model in a small pot of white spirits and then give it a good wash with soapy water, allowing it to dry overnight before painting with at least three thin coats of spray acrylic light grey primer.

Because of the way the chassis was mounted the crew has to be mounted on a base. This does mean chopping their legs off and glueing them to a small rectangle of plasticard. The top surface of this is painted matt black to disguise the lack of depth within the cab.

I made the headlamp using 3 disks of 1mm thick plasticard to form the body and two small squares fitted top and bottom to give the lamp its distinctive shape. These are the later acetylene lamps used on the C.V.R. The lenses were formed by using a suitable sized drill bit and forming a concave shape hollow in the face of the lamp, which was then lined with aluminium foil shiny side outward. The lamp was then painted matt black and left to fit to the cab between the windows after painting was completed.

Painting starting with the red on the cowcatcher and the area around the front coupling, I have used a red spray paint purchased from Aldi which gives a good bright red finish. The body and foot plate requires masking off well when using this, and I also used masking fluid in the areas around the coupler pockets.

Once a couple of coats of this was applied I moved on to the main bodywork, for which I used Humbrol Brunswick Green acrylic spray paint, masking off the areas of red and black first. The black areas round the skirts and smoke box were finished with Humbrol Matt Black 33.

The finishing touches round the windows and safety valves are in Humbrol Metallic Bronze. It is usually a good bet to leave the model for a few days after painting the top coats, as particularly on the Shapeways body shells there always seems to be a slight reaction to the carrier wax residue, and the paint stays soft. When I am quite happy that the paint has cured I add the cab glazing and crew, then fix the roof in place.

The engine name and number are added next using Model Master water slide transfers. As this was a prototype I just used the C.V.R. initials and No 8 which did not exist on the railway as I wanted to add a bit of simple detail for show.

When these have dried overnight I apply a coat of matt varnish, usually Humbrol enamel brushed or acrylic spray.

The final touch is to add the coal. This is done using PVA wood glue and crushed real coal. The coal bunker is filled with the PVA and the coal pieces added using a small piece of tube sliced back at an angle to form a scoop. This gives me a bit of control over where the coal is applied.

In conclusion, this may not be the best chassis to use on this engine but it runs very well and if weighted right will pull a resizable load. The overall size of the engine is not too large to work on a small layout. It may be I will develop this body to suit a different chassis in the future.

If you would like to try one of these 3D prints please visit my shop on Shapeways at: https://www.shapeways.com/product/DS9BJHE27/009-blessingbourne

Sunday, 11 October 2015

Sharp Stewart 0 4 2

Looking around there are many really good model tram engines but some just stand out from the crowd. Such is the case for me with the numerous models of the Clougher Valley railways original engines, the 0 4 2 Sharp Stuarts, captured so well by Paul Windle’s reduced size version.It took me a while to discover where the original of this engine came from, I eventually came across a picture of it on the Belfast Telegraph’s archives, pointing me to the Clougher Valley railway as its home. I now have a treasured copy of The Clougher Valley Railway by E.M.Patterson which is a brilliant source of information about this tramway / railway.

Having just completed a course to learn 3D Cad I was advised to practice on a subject I would enjoy, so what better subject than this engine. I decided to work on a compact version to fit a Kato 11-104 chassis, and this was the first thing I drew up since I could use this chassis drawing on other projects as well.

Cad file of 0 4 2 Sharp Stuart

The whole process was an interesting challenge as I was planning to use 3D printing to produce the model, a process which meant a lot of reading to find out about the different material available.

My final choice of plastic was an acrylic which would provide me with fine detail; I had selected two suppliers to try, one being Shapeways and the other CWrailways http://www.cwrailways.com . My first attempt was sent to Shapeways, which was a single piece body and had quite a few drawbacks. Access to get detail and crew into the cab was one, I should have made the roof separate. The other was that areas of the body shell were too thin, which showed up as the acrylic is very brittle and easily damaged. A corner of the roof overhang broke off, so I added a further layer of thin plastic card to the top surface. The funnel was elegant but far too thin, I ended up cutting it off and adding a Gem white metal one. Also the bottom edges of the tram skirts were thin and seemed pretty fragile, so again I did a bit of reinforcing with plasticard.

By the time I got round to ordering my second prototype I had completed the first one. I finished it in Brunswick green and named the engine Erne No 6 after one of the Clougher Valley railway originals.

With modifications done to the drawing of the second prototype, I sent the STL file of to Chris at CWrailways who had kindly advised on some changes to the model. When this second model had been printed it was more robust and I was pleased with the results. There were a few little niggling issues that prompted a return to the drawing board, but these were tweaks not major things.

With the body shell form CWrailways there is no need to remove the support wax residue. Unlike the Shapeways version, you can rub over the surface with a wood lolly stick or similar tool with rounded edges, and this helps to remove the layer effect evident on the model’s surface. A good two or three thin coats of spray primer will level the surface ready for the final brush or spray finish.

Once the first coat of primer was added to the body and any blemishes to the surface corrected, I then added hand rails and other details. The hand rails I used were from Mainly Trains http://www.mainlytrains.co.uk/ ; the make was Gibson, which uses 0.45mm brass wire and some really small brass handrail knobs, one of the short versions of these were used on this engine. They are fiddly to handle but look very much to scale.

I made the head lamps at this stage using 3 disks of 1 mm thick plasticard to form the body and two small squares fitted top and bottom to give the lamp its distinctive shape. These are the later acetylene lamps used on the C.V.R. The lenses were formed by using a suitable sized drill bit and forming a concave shape hollow in the face of the lamp, which was then lined with aluminium foil shiny side outward. The lamp was then painted matt black and left to fit to the cab between the windows after painting was completed.

It is necessary to cut down the Kato 11-104 chassis. The cuts are made at both ends just at the outside of the fixing screws holding the unit together, you will need to file a bit of the metal base back to this point also. A couple of little bits of lead strip were added at each end of the chassis just under the fixings.

The only other ballast I added to the second engine was two pieces down the inside of each skirt. The first engine had the lead fitted to the inside of each water tank and under the coal bunker. Both run well with the weight added.

I cut some clear plasticard for the cab windows which was much easier to fit with no roof on the cab and this was not glued in place until the paintwork was completed. A suitable figure was selected from the Dapol range of trackside workmen, adjusted to take up a relaxed stance in the cab and painted. This was then put aside to be added with the glazing when painting of the body was finished.

The final addition to the shell was Peco NEM coupler pockets. These are glued together which is easier when they are whole. A small strip of 0.5 mm plasticard was used to locate the pockets in the correct position so they did not stick out too much on the face of the body, (but this is personal choice). They were then cut down from the Z shape to form an L shape, this being necessary because of the limited space I have allowed for the chassis.

As mentioned earlier I added three thin coats of primer to this model, the finishing coats were applied by spray and brush. Starting with the red on the cowcatcher and the area around the front coupling, I have a red spray paint purchased from Aldi which gives a good bright red finish. The body and foot plate requires masking off well when using this, and I also use masking fluid in the areas around the cylinders and coupler pockets.

Once a couple of coats of this was applied I moved on to the main bodywork, for which I used Revell SM331 which is similar to Crimson Lake. The black areas round the skirts, smoke box and cab roof were finished with Hunbrol Matt black 33.

The finishing touches round the windows and safety valves are in Hunbrol metallic bronze. It is usually a good bet to leave the model for a few days after painting the top coats, as particularly on the Shapeways body shells there always seems to be a slight reaction to the carrier wax residue, and the paint stays soft. When I am quite happy that the paint has cured I add the cab glazing and crew, then fix the roof in place.

The engine name and number are added next using Model master water slide transfers. An ark cut from masking tape is used as guide to get the individual letters of the name to form a curve.

When these have dried overnight I apply a coat of matt varnish, usually Humbrol enamel brushed or acrylic spray.

This model has opened up all sorts for possibilities for me, Ideas are there and I am hoping to draw up a few more and print them.

If you would like to obtain a copy of the 3D print it is available at.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/TYBBEH7A6/009-irish-tram-engine?li=shop-results&optionId=57962544&rc=SearchResults
http://www.cwrailways.com/009-ng.html

009 Tram engine 2

Having been ask to create a version of this little tram engine to suit a Hallings 12 mm chassis for HOm12 gauge, I found that the new larger engine also suited the Kato 11-103 chassis, and it is this version which I have made here see pictures below.

I have had a prototype printed in FUD, and would be confident that it should print in SWF as well, as its smaller twin dose.

http://www.shapeways.com/product/KSK5TV4JJ/?key=f5755833c042d20fc32b50583926515c&optionId=60192392

Monday, 31 August 2015

Irish Railcar

Updated 2020

Recently, while looking through old pictures on the internet for “The Clogher Valley Railway”, I happened across a picture of a really nice looking little railcar. Although this was not officially used on the C.V.R - merely lent by the County Donegal railway as a trial - it did not look out of place. This was the Donegal railcar No 4, one of eight that the enthusiastic Henry Forbes had introduced on the C.D.R. in the early 1930s. After further searches, I came across some really good drawings of this railcar done by JDW drawing services from New Zealand.

These gave me the spur to draw up my own version in 009 gauge. I considered the type of chassis I was going to use, having a couple of Kato 11-104’s in my bit box. These looked about the right wheel size, and the spacing looked roughly in proportion, although the wheels would be a little further back than they were in the original. I stripped the weight off the bottom of the chassis so it looked a bit less bulky, and this did not affect the running as long as other weights were added elsewhere. Based on this idea, I did a Cad 3D drawing of the railcar bodywork and after uploading this onto the Shapeways site and proofing the structure for printing in various materials I had, with a bit of redrawing, something to work with. I went ahead and had it printed in the Frosted Ultra detail since I had added quite a bit of fine detail to the windows and coachwork round the body, which I wanted to show up clearly.

A couple of weeks later a Shapeways box turned up, and I was very pleased with the results. This was my second attempt at design and printing in 3D. I had designed the front of the bodywork behind the radiator to hook over the front of the Kato chassis. I was intending to remove the front clips used to hold the chassis in place, which were right in front of the forward bulkhead and looked out of place (see Cad drawing). I noticed that I had left part of the forward bulkhead under the bonnet obstructing the chassis, so this had to be removed. Once I had adjusted the chassis by cutting the end balcony’s off, trimming the front clips back to the base top, and removing the two small pins which are at the back of the couplings from both ends the chassis it was ready to put in place. The only thing which I had not allowed sufficient space for was the green capacitor, so I had to drill a hole between the seats to allow for this. I found the rear clips were a bit too strong to allow me to get the chassis in and out with ease, so I filed these down a little so they were more rounded than angular, which worked.

Using some lead flashing as ballast, this was cut into small weights which fitted between the chassis mounting plate and the railcar floor. The chassis traps this in place when fitted. In addition to these, I also added a small piece inside the cabin in front of the seats and behind the doors. This was needed to get the wheels to pick up current and run smoothly. It is best to have a dry run with the ballast and any interior fit out at this stage before painting.

The design is in two parts: the roof is separate with 6 small lugs to position it onto the main body, which allows the fitting of glazing after painting and also the cabin can be populated by some people if you wish.

With the Frosted Ultra detail, you need to get rid of the wax residue before paint is added. I tackle this with a wash in white spirits and then a good wash in hot soapy water. It is best to dry it off in the airing cupboard overnight if you still have one of these.

I used Plastikote grey primer to give the base coat to the paintwork, but any good primer should do the job. With a light rubdown with some ‘wet and dry’ between coats and before the final colour is added. As I am using a light cream colour, I added a further base coat of matt off-white.

Any visible areas of the chassis round the front I painted matt black, and with the capacitor now exposed I added some masking tape above this, which was also finished in the matt black.

My intention is to do the floor area in a matt black. This should give a false impression of depth where there is none.

When painting the railcar I decided to opt for a cross between the Donegal colour scheme of the red lower body and cream upper round windows with a light grey / white roof and the Clogher crimson lake / reddish brown for coaches and railcars. I used the Donegal placement of colour but used a deeper reddish / burgundy Humbrol matt 73 on the lower body, with cream round the windows; this will be a 1:2 mix of Humbrol cream matt 103 and white matt 34 and a light grey roof. I have some coaches done in a similar livery so this will fit in.

Once painted, I added the glazing in clear Plasticard sheet cut to suit each section of windows. The front screen and the doors needed mitring on the inside face, but trapped each other in place and a small spot of contact adhesive fixes these in position. The seats at the side of the coach have a small depression at the top near the windows to rest the glazing in so that they only need fixing at the top. I cut a full height panel for the back window, which was then bonded at the bottom on the floor and in the top corners.

At this stage, the figures are added, and I have used a selection of the Dapol station and trackside “torsos” to fill some of the seating plus a driver. They are held in place with a spot of contact adhesive.

To complete the front of the railcar, I have added a single headlamp on an extended frame from below the side of the radiator, which holds the lamp in a position at the top of the radiator. This was made from some 40^thplasticard discs which I made using a hole punch. This was glued together and drilled with a 0.5 hole to take some 0.45 mm brass wire, which was passed through and bent to form the bracket. To give the lens some sparkle I added a small 2mm clear rhinestone to the front and painted the lamp body and bracket black.

The radiator was painted in a mix of Humbrol Met 56 silver and satin black 85 to give a less shiny and more gunmetal effect. I then dry brushed over the grill with this same mix to pick out the vertical slats.

I decided to give the railcar a number only at this stage which was applied using some Talyllyn coach numbers to the sides. No 6 is my chosen number for this railcar. I then added a top coat of satin varnish over the matt paintwork and the transfers.

It has been an enjoyable challenge to create this little railcar and it will now join my mini 3D printed version of the Sharp Stewart engine, also running on the reliable Kato chassis.

Since writing this blog I have seen a number of other modellers versions of this little railcar. Simon Cox has kindly allowed me to show some pictures of his take on the railcar. A rustic version that not only carries people but their livestock as well. Details of Simon’s build can be seen on the “Narrow Gauge Railway Modelling Online” forums under, (Simon-Coxs-workbench). A brilliant job Simon.

By Simon Cox

Further developments 2017 and updated 2020 to suit the new Kato 11-110 chassis

009 Irish style Railcar

This is a similar small 009 Railcar to my earlier Donegal Irish Railcar but slightly increased in size and with additional features and design changes. It is again designed to work on the Kato 11-104 or 11-110 chassis with modification. I have designed this model to print in White Versatile Plastic. It has also been made available to print in Smooth Fine Detailed Plastic.

The roof is removable to allow for the addition of internal details such as glazing and figures and there is also a rear ladder for access to the roof luggage rack. The roof profile reflects the original Donegal No 4’s, with a central lamp added to the front. Also, representations of the slashers - mudguards have been added above the front wheels.

Alterations to the Kato 11-110 chassis to suit this rail car body.

1 The forward part of the plastic casing will need to be cut off. If the plastic shell is removed from the chassis this is easier to do. it should be the front section with the small arrow. A razer saw will do this.

2 Some of the metal casing to the chassis needs to be removed, this can only be done at the front of the chassis. A razer saw or small cutting disk will remove the front section, then a small file can be used to shape the sides.

A small packer of 0.5mm may be needed at the top of the plastic casing to the floor of the
model to position the chassis height correctly.

If you would like to obtain a copy of the 3D print it is available at.

www.shapeways.com/shops/model-engine-works