Model Engine Works: February 2017

Updated March 2020

This has been a very interesting project for me as it was my first collaborative modelling project. I would like to thank Paul Titmuss for his trust in me to come up with the goods and all his help in getting the model to the level of detail we have achieved. It got off the ground in September 2016 at the Halifax Model railway exhibition where Paul and I had arranged to discuss an idea that he had been trying to get help with for some time.

The idea was to have a simple and interesting steam tram engine as an introduction to 00n3 gauge accessible to all skill levels. Like 009 gauge has the Kato tram chassis and a choice of 3D printed bodies for tram engines to get you started. This is what Paul is hoping to achieve with this model and some others that CWRailways produce for 00n3.

Whilst briefing me on the engine, Paul mentioned that he would be showing his Annascaul layout at The Ulster Folk and Transport Museum in November 2016 and suggested it would be good to show the engine off on its home ground. So no pressure there then, with just over six weeks to draw up, get it printed, and to allow time for Paul to finish the model, this was good motivation to get my skates on.

I had already done a 009 3D printed version of the “Clogher Valley” tram engine, so I was familiar with the subject, but this was to be a true to 4mm scale version with much more detail than my original prints had. Our original thoughts were that I could alter the drawing file for the larger tram engine No2. As this was already drawn up to work with a Halling Chassis, it seemed an easy solution. But it is sometimes much easier to start again than pull something apart and try and to remodel it, especially a C.A.D drawing. So working from photos and some line drawings I started building a new 3D model from scratch. We had the print done by mid-October and Paul did a great job to get it ready for the exhibition in works grey with a few modifications, which we added to the final drawings.

Build Preparation

Priming and smoothing is necessary on both Strong White Flexible-Polished and Frosted Ultra Detail plastics. We will take F.U.D. first as there is a cleaning process to get the surface ready for priming. Some of the support waxy residue will still be present and it is necessary to remove this. First the print should be dipped in white spirits for a short time to loosen and soften the wax, after this transfer it to some warm (not hot) soapy water to wash the softened wax away. A small stiff paint brush may help here to access the nooks and crannies on the print, then leave to dry thoroughly before painting.

There are two approaches to building the model and both give good results as Paul and I show. The first is to fully assemble the model adding most of the details except glazing and cab interior, then prime and smooth ready for final painting (all paintwork was done by hand on Paul’s model). The other method is to prime and smooth the individual parts. In my case I worked with the footplate, the main body, the cab roof, and the oil lamp. They were all lightly spray-primed in white (to show up the later wire-work clearly). Then I added most of the detailed items such as wire for pipes and handrails, smokebox door handles, valve gear, and whistle. These individual parts were all lightly spray-primed on the model.

Adding Ballast

As with all 3D prints it is advisable to add weight to the print. On this engine, the tram skirts provide an ideal location, as the weight is low and it keeps the model from being top heavy.

Fitting the Motor Bogie

First you will need to remove the couplings which are printed on the underside of the footplate.

The Halling Motor Bogie is intended to ease into the foot plate section of the print straight from underneath, the saddle sits over the magnet on top of the motor giving a snug fit side to side and sets the motor level with the footplate. The lower brackets / tabs under the footplate are intended to be a little tight, on the FUD print it may be prudent to sand a little off the inner face of the brackets, to obtain a fit that will just hold the bogie without it falling out, the brackets on the FUD print have been reinforced to allow for the brittle nature of the plastic.

The footplate has also got a couple of scoops taken out of the top surface, this is to allow for the tendency of the motor shaft to move back and forward slightly in operation.

Adding the Wire-Work

Handrails and pipes were the next items to be fitted to the main body of the model. The prints have been done with a set of small pilot holes to help in positioning of the various handrails, pipes, valve gear, whistle and lamps. There are more than is needed but these are easily filled if not required. It will be necessary to drill out to size these holes particularly on the SWF-P prints. As a guide, the wire used for the handrails was .045 mm brass, the pipes from the smoke chests on the footplate were the same 0.45 mm brass. The pipe running from the smokebox to the cab was 1 mm copper on my version and .75 mm brass on Paul’s.

Adding the Valve Gear

The valve gear rods which fit into the steam chests at the front of the footplate, are handed with the front-end fitting into the steam chest first, then they are lowered into the two holes in the upper face of the foot plate.

Smoke Box Door Handles

We used two types of handles for the smokebox door. Paul used the brass turning from Markits; I on the other hand, used a set of etched wheels from RT Models some of which were also used in the cab, and a white metal smokebox door Dart/handle. Both achieve the same result but mine was somewhat fiddly to fit.

Couplings

There are a set of basic couplings printed within the footplate section for the model which will need to be cut out before the motor bogie can be fitted in place. The pockets on the front and back buffer beams will take Peco NEM pockets or the couplings supplied. I have made the shafts on the printed couplings a little smaller in height than the pockets to allow the builder to pack them at the top or bottom for lining up with existing stock if required.

Building the Cab Interior

A crew and the cab interior were the next job to look at. I have not been able to find any pictures for the cab interior of these engines, so it is a blank canvas. Both Paul and I have had a go at what we think it may have looked like, you may have your own ideas. I used Dapol trackside work crew figures, sheet plasticard, some wheels off the brass etch used for the smokebox door, and odd bits of old left over kits.

Additional notes on Cab Interior Layout

Paul has found some further information on the interior that indicates a different layout on the left-hand side facing the boiler, this make since that there is no coal bunker internally just a hatch to access the external coal bunker, and the break column and handle are over at the side in the middle of the cab. This may have been the layout once the additional space was added to carry coal above the firebox and boiler.

Adding the Glazing

The larger windows were eventually glazed on the engines to help protect the crew from the weather with bars on the inside to protect the glass. I do not know if glass was also added to the windows next to the bunker. As I have printed the model with the bars already in the windows, I cheated and added glazing on the inside of the bars. Paul decided to leave the glazing out altogether, which gives a better view of your work on the inside of the cab.

Painting

The painting was tackled in two ways: Paul’s model was all hand painted in matt Humprol paints to be finished with a coat of satin varnish and lightly weathered; my version was sprayed in separate parts using Humbrol acrylic satin Brunswick green paint for the body and cab roof. The footplate was done in a matt acrylic spray paint. Then the details such as the cowcatcher, valves, window bars were picked out by hand. The cab interior figures were all hand painted.

Adding Coal

The Coal is the real the thing crushed, and held in place with PVA glue.

Transfers

My reason for using satin finish paint is to allow for the waterslide transfers to be applied with ease. I had a sheet of Cheltenham Medium, 2mm / 1mm general gold lettering and numbers from Fox Transfers which were used on some of my previous Clogher Valley engines. The names on these engines were laid out on an ark so I have used a small paper template to assist in lining the lettering upon the ark and getting the spacings between the letters right. The Clogher Valley monogram of interlaced letters was created by over laying a C, R and V closely. Generally “CV” only was used, but on Blackwater “CVR” was also used. I did the full CVR to see how it worked. Once the transfers have dried I fix them with a coat of oil based Humbrol satin varnish and apply this as part of the finishing coat over the entire paintwork on the engine.

Weathering

This is a method of applying weathering soot and dirt with oil pastels. I have tried this method on a few models and it does give reasonable results. Using colours such as black, burnt umber, light red, cadmium orange and sienna oil pastels, I use a craft knife to slice these and create a powder. This is saved in a small divided container. I have a soft No 6 size paint brush and dab this into the power and then rub the brush onto the surface of the model as required. The results gives a scuttle soot, rust and general dirt finish.

October 2017 launch on Shapeways of the new FUD print including detailed parts:

I am pleased to announce the launch of my revised Frosted Ultra Detailed Clogher Valley Tram Engine. Having work on adding additional details to the print and also incorporating the detailed parts print within the main body of the model, this has both enhanced the model and reduced the cost. See this latest model at the Model Engine Works on Shapeways.

If you would like a copy of this model visit Model Engine Works at: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/model-engine-works

Please note:

There are two prints produced to complete the models shown in this article; these are the main body which is available in Strong White Flexible Polished or Frosted Ultra Detail. Also, a set of detailed parts in Frosted Ultra Detail, this is to give the Strong White Flexible Polished print a level of detail that would not be possible in that material alone.

A new 009 version of the model has been added to Shapeways, this has been designed to run on the new Kato 11-110 chassis and is slightly reduced in size to work better on 9mm track.

Sources of Additional Materials

Smokebox door handles from:

Markits. Code M4SBDH4 ref GC/LNWR.

RT Models ref 4AGB0MW etched wheels and 4AGB00D Smokebox door Dart/handle.

Hadrail and knobs:

Alan Gibson Brass Wire ref 0.45 mm G4M136 and handrail knobs 4mm short ref G4M53.

Couplings:

Couplings pockets Peco NEM pockets ref GR-103.

Greenwich Coupling ref CPL 3 for NEM pockets.

Engine crew:

Crew ideas Dapol C002 Railway Workmen.

Modelu-3d printed railway figures.

Engine name and number:

Fox transfers also possible use for monogram.

Sunday, 5 February 2017

00n3 Clogher Valley Sharp Stewart Engine