Tuesday, 8 September 2020

Peckett Style Tram Engine

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved

This engine was inspired by an article in the 009 News September 2019 by Ben Powell, who had accomplished a fantastic scratch version of a Peckett saddle tank shunter, on a Ndrive chassis with special outside cranks. Hornby has also brought out a standard gauge 0-6-0 version of a Pickett shunter which is super detailed, and I love the colour selected for that model.  So, taking this style of the small engine as a guide I drew up a tram version to run on the newer Kato 11-110 chassis, more of a challenge to myself to come up with something that looked similar as a 009-tram engine.

The result of the drawing is a 3D printed version, which is printed as one piece to be split into roof, body, footplate and couplings. This can be printed in White Versatile Plastic or Fine Detailed Plastic. With the addition of small handrail knobs, brass wire and smokebox door darts looks like a passable resemblance to a Peckett style tram engine.    

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved

 I had a sample printed by Shapeways in Fine Detailed Plastic. When this arrived with me, I soaked it in Petroleum organic solvent – paint thinners (“White Sprits” in the UK) in order to remove the wax support residue left from printing, then a wash in warm soapy water should leave the surface ready for painting after it is fully dried. I use a grey or white spray primer to prep the model for finishing. In some areas, it will be necessary to remove print lines from the surface, and this can be done with a burnishing tool - I use a hardwood stick with a rounded point to get in the tight spaces. Do these processes before separating the print into its component parts so you will be less likely to lose any of the small pieces.

Wirework and details

The next job was to add the handrails to the saddle tank and at the side of the cab. I obtained these from a supplier on eBay for both the wire and the small brass handrail knobs. I have used Alan Gibson versions in the past, but these turned out every bit as good. The cab side handrails I formed as small staples bent with pliers to the right size and fitted into the pilot holes supplied in the model. I did have to drill out the holes for the small handrail knobs to give them a clearance fit. The handrails were then glued in place with Cyanoacrylate (super) glue.
The smokebox door dart I ordered from RT Models who supply a good range of 4mm detailing parts, the darts come in white metal or cast brass. I used the brass version in this model.

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved
The new Kato 11-110 chassis is a welcome improvement on the later version of the 11-104 which they replace, having more weight, different gearing, a brass flywheel and much smother electric motor. They fit within a similar opening as the original. They do not need as much ballast to run well, but adding some is a good idea for traction. I used small strips of lead fitted along the inside of the skirts, as low as possible to keep the engine balanced.   
The couplings I used on this model were the printed ones, but others could be fitted such as Greenwich or NEM couplings. The aperture in the buffer beams will take the Peco 103 NEM pockets and couplings.

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved

Painting and finishing

Once all the additional bits and details were added I gave the model a final coat of grey spray primer and made sure all was ready of the final paint finish. For this model, I was trying some Tamiya acrylic paints, for the body XF-4 Yellow Green the footplate, roof Handrails, smokebox door, funnel and couplings XF-85 Rubber Black on the buffer beams XF-7 Flat Red. Using these I noticed that each colour has a different consistency, the XF-4 and XF-7 being thin and needing several coats were as the XF-85 was smother creamer and needed fewer coats. Some details like the window frames I picked out in a brass enamel paint and the cab handrails, cylinders and couplings were painted in a gunmetal metallic enamel paint.

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved

I wanted to add an etched nameplate and number transfers to the model. I applied a coat of clear gloss enamel varnish to the areas these were to be placed, this is a better surface to apply the transfers to and allows you to adjust and position them much easier. I used “Fox” 2mm waterslide transfers in black for the cab sides and rear and white for the front buffer beam. The etched nameplate was obtained from an eBay supplier “N Brass Locos” of premade 009 industrial engine nameplates. These plates were glued in place with a small amount Cyanoacrylate (super) glue, though a contact adhesive works as well and does give time to adjust the position on the model. Once this was completed, I applied a coat of matt enamel varnish to the whole surface of the model, this also seals the transfers in place.

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved

The final additions to the model were to add some real crushed coal to the rear bunker, by adding PVA glue to the bunker area and then tipping a small amount of the coal over this using a tube as a micro shovel to place it correctly. I have in the past made some working lamps from white Plasticard and rhinestones of clear and red plastic and I used two of these for the running lamps for this engine.

©  2020   David Hurst     All  Rights Reserved

If you would like a 3D print of this model visit Shapeways at:

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